A Royal Blue, Royal Wedding Dress: Part 1, Pattern Adjustments

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As I've started sewing more complicated patterns I constantly wish for more thorough reviews of fit and technique but, aside from quick notes on Instagram most people don't do that!  I then I realized I don't do that either ... oops.  But no more!  I'll be using this blog to do reviews of the patterns I make, the techniques I use to make it fit juuuuust right and, of course, lots of photos of the finished piece.

First up, Butterick B5880, originally printed in 1951.  I've had this pattern in my stash for awhile, and even bought the royal blue crepe-backed satin six months ago, but it's not an everyday dress so it was easy to put to the back of the line.  Enter the McCalls Royal Wedding sew-along contest.  The prize: a gorgeous Singer sewing machine (Hi McCalls - pick me!).



Step one is figuring out all the fit adjustments for this pattern.  Based on the measurements, I should be fine to sew a 14 in the bust and waist but will need to add 4" around the hips.  With the front being one piece and the back being three, I split the additions into 1" each on the side fronts, 1/2" each on the back side seams and then added a 1/2" to each side of the center back piece.  The curved tailor's ruler was essential to getting that smooth hip curve drawn in.  I'm like the anti-gadget sewist so I'm embarrassed to say I just bought this tool last week.  I should have bought it four years ago ...



Moving on!  I tissue fit the bodice top using the technique that Gretchen Hirsch, aka Gertie, teaches in her classes: trace the pattern onto Swedish tracing paper, mark the seam allowance, pin the darts, pin the piece together and then hold it up to check the fit.

Based on the fit, which you can sort of see in this photo, is to deepen the arm scythe 1/2" and lower the darts by an 1/2" as the darts are creating volume, and try a 1/2" full bust adjustment to give a bit more room in the front.  As there isn't a bottom dart, I had to add one but it shouldn't dramatically change the look - and will make it actually fit!


As I was fitting this without the help of another sewist, to double check the fit I cut out my lining fabric first, sewed it up most of the way, and then pinned the rest of it on me for a final check.  And, looks great! 



Next up, cutting into my gorgeous blue fabric and making the final dress.



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